Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Village scenery in Marangu

More village scenery

Charles, my friend and guide, at Kilimanjaro National Park

Kilasia Waterfall in Marangu

Babylon Hotel courtyard area

Wafuachuma(blacksmiths) in the Chaga village


Spears and souvenirs made by the blacksmiths

At the entrance to one of the Chaga caves

Mtoto in a village near Kilasia Waterfall having fun with his umbrella

Some strange guy at Kilasia Waterfall


Charles and Monica at the entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Weekend in Marangu

Life is definitely happening, and overall, my days have been pleasant and enjoyable. Many people and many conversations from different perspectives are common in this cultural mixing pot called Arusha. The pace of things is pleasant here and the simplicity is comforting. There is plenty of activity to constitute a busy life, but for us and many other locals, each day is defined by some personal interests and simple obligations. It's very easy to welcome the leisure of the town and the friendly hospitality from most.
This past weekend was very pleasant. My local friend Charles Nuru Sonyo took took me to Marangu, a small town near Moshi at the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro. He met me at the Arusha resort from which we walked a fair distance through the city to the bus stop where we boarded a decent sized bus that didn't leave until every seat was full and even some passengers were standing in the aisle. We arrived in Moshi at night after about two hours and then proceeded to a dala dala that would take us to Marangu. We ended up waiting for what seemed almost a half hour while the van filled up and until the driver finally returned. With about 25 people on board, we eventually departed with a roll start in 2nd gear. As we drove from Moshi into the more rural area, I could make out nothing of the terrain or scenery. It was very dark in an area with far less development; I knew that the morning would provide the truth of the beauty of the area. After about 45 minutes of driving we got off the dala dala and loaded into a taxi. We shared the cab with a local elder who was also on the dala dala. We stopped to pick up Monica, Charles' cousin, who was kind enough to provide free accomodations(such a sweetheart). After nearly 4 hours of exhausting travel, we arrived at the Babylon Hotel where we had a drink, ate a late supper, and then slept well. The next morning we disembarked around 9am after a nice breakfast of eggs, fruit, toast, and tea. We first went to see the entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park. Charles registered at the office to inform them that he would return in a few days to guide a few foreign travelers through the park. Other than that, we took a few pictures, saw the porters and travelers preparing to ascend the mountain, and then went back down the hill to take Monica to work before Sonyo and I hiked to Kilasia waterfall. The descent to the falls was very very steep and slippery, but amazing. Everywhere it was so green and down at the bottom it seemed so isolated. We saw only a few other hikers there. The water coming down from Kilimanjaro was flowing heavily and had the most pleasant sound. I realized it had been so long since I'd seen a real waterfall. After the intense hike back up, we walked at a steady pace all the way back to the main road. It was such a pleasant walk through the villages and I really appreciated being a group of only two, especially with one of us being a proper guide with a lot of information about the plantlife, surroundings, and the people. (e.g. he showed me the leaves of the plant called Indigo Fera Arrecta from which you can make a tea that has an effect quite similar to viagra......................we didn't make any tea).
After getting back to the town center we continued to a Wachaga village where there were blacksmiths that are continuing a custom that has been practiced for over 200 years. Their method was very simple but very functional. They mostly make spears and things as souveniers now in comparison to the traditional practicing of the trade, but nonetheless it is still quite fascinating. Another amazing aspect of this Wachaga village was the caves that have been preserved and hidden under the grass roofs as in the past. Long ago the Chaga people and the Maasai were in conflict, and in order evade the Maasai, the Chaga would hide inside the caves underneath their village. With a traditional grass roof over the cave entrance to look like a real hut covering the actual opening, the Wachaga had an effective hideout from the Maasai threat. They would stay for long periods of time in the caves with access to simple amenities and also with underground access to water. As we left the village we randomly saw the elder lady who we shared a taxi with the night before and waved goodbye. We got back to the town center to have a late lunch of stewed meat, rice, veggies and beans; can't go wrong with that meal ever. We made our way to Fortune hotel where Monica works to say goodbye to her and have a beer before taking the long bus trek back to Arusha. After a very crowded bus ride from Moshi with an amazingly clear view of Mt. Kili to the north, we arrived in Arusha. I took a motorcycle taxi back to Arusha Resort and Charles and I parted ways. I had another late dinner and proceeded to have a pleasant evening to add to an overall great weekend.